Shoe and method of making same



Dec. 14, 1937. E QUINN SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed Dec. 1'7, 1935 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR ATTORNEY Dec. 14, 1937.-

E. QUINN SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed Dec. 17, 1935 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 ATTORNEY Dec. 14, 1937. QUINN SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed Dec. 17, 1935 3 Sheets-Sheet 5 R. O T N E V m ATTORNEY Patented D 14, 193i, 2 2,102,333

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAIM'E Edward Quinn, Brooklyn, N, Y., assignor to The Del-Mac Shoe Process Corporation, New York, N. Y. I

Application December 17, 1935, Serial No. 54,798

' Claims. (Cl. 12-142) My invention relates to shoes and shoemaking. cut wall thereof away from the strip, whereupon A principal object of my invention is to prothe strip may be freely removed. vide an improved shoe in which the upper parts The channel is then enlarged .by removal of a are securely attached to the sole without stitching waste strip ID from \the bottom and outer walls c 5 or'tacks, staples or other metallic devices. Anthereof, said strip having a thickness approxi- 6 other principal object of my invention is to promately equal to the thickness of the upper 20, vide an improvement in shoemaking methods by the upper preferably comprising a lining 20'.

which shoes embodying my novel construction Prepared as above, the sole member is tacked may be simply, efiiciently. and economically proonto a last 22, grooved side out, and-the upper duced. Other and further objects will appear of the shoe is assembled on the last wrong side 10 from the following specification. out, pulled over, and temporarily secured in Referring to the drawings. which form a part lasted relation to the sole member by tacks of this specification: 23-23. Adhesive cement 25, such as pyroxylin,

- Figure 1 ma plan view of a rounded sole mem-. may then be applied in the'channel and the sole ber having a groove or channel formed in the assembly margin of the upper is wiped into the 15 surface thereof inwardly of its edge. channel, any surplus upper material extending Figure 2 is a plan view of a stripremoved in beyond the bottom inner corner of the channel forming the sole channel. being trimmed away.

Figure 3 is a cross sectional view of the strip Next, the clincher strip I6 is inlaid in the shown in Figure 2. channel, where it may be secured by a second 20 Figure 4 is a cross sectional view of the soleadhesive application After the cement has member taken on line 4-4 of Figure 1. set the lasting tacks 23 are removed, after which Figure 5 is aview of the sole similar to Figure the shoe may be removed from the last and 4 showing a second strip removed from the walls turned in the usual manner of making turned 25 of the sole channel. 1 shoes. After turning, a second last 21 is driven 25 Figure 6 is a cross sectional view showing the into the shoe, the usual shank-piece being first shoe and upper assembled wrong side out on a inserted. The sole and the strip are then preferlast. ably levelled against the last in a standard ce- Figure '7 is a sectional view showing the shoe ment sole attaching machine or sole levelling turned and second lasted. machine. 30

Figure 8 is a perspective view of my completed The shoe may be completed by attaching a shoe, shown partly in section to disclose the inheel 30, and by the usual trimming and finishing seam construction. operations, including the removal of the last Figure 9 is a view similar to Figure 8 illustrat- 21 and the insertion of a sock lining 32. 5 ing a modification of my improved shoe and It will be noted, Figure 6, that the insertion Figure 10 is a fragmental section showing the of the upper end of the Strip into the S016 inseam construction thereof on a larger scale. channel is facilitated by the condition that the Figure 11-is a perspective view, partly in secsole edge margin, conformed to the rounded 185'? tion, of another modified construction; and bottom, is arched to spread the channel during Figure 12 is a fr'agmental section showing the the first lasting operation, and that the bottom 40 inseam construction on alarger scale. of the second last 21 (Figure '7) s Similarly In making my improved shoe, I provide a rounded so that the sole conformed thereto is rounded sole member l5 of leather or other suitarched in a reverse direction, tending to 01058 able sole material, from the marginal portion the channel and to squeeze the upper margin of the flesh surface of which I remove an anguand the strip l6 therein. 45 lar clincher strip or welt l6, thereby forming an In t e const Shown in Figures 9 and angular groove or channel I! inwardly of the the uppe margin is held against all three c anedge of the sole. As shown, the strip is prefernel walls and may be trimmed after insertion of ably of less breadth at the top than at the botthe clincher strip 35. Also, the outer wall of tom thereof, its outer edge angling upward, and the channel is substantially perpendicular to the 50 the groove I! has the cross sectional shape of surface of the sole and the inner channel wall the removed strip. I angles inwardly downward, the sides of the strip When the strip l6.has been out free of the 36 being substantially parallel to the walls of. the sale, the sole edge may be flexed downwardly channel.

to spread the channel. oving the outer under- Figures 11 and 12 disclose a modified construc- 55 highly flexible shoe having a smooth interior and a strong and waterproof seam construction.

In setting forth my invention I have described a turned shoe. However, inasmuch as the novel features of my invention relate entirely to the seam construction, it .will be apparent that similar ways and like means may be used to join the soles and uppers in shoes of other types. I therefore desire to have it understood that the foregoing description is merely illustrative of my invention and that such changes and adaptations may be made as fall within the scope of the following claims.

I claim:

l. A turned shoe comprising a sole member having a channel of angular cross section extending about the surface margins inwardly of the edge thereof, a strip of. angular cross section inlaid in said channel and an upper clinched between said strip and the outer wall of the channel, the inlaid sides of said strip being substantially parallel to the channel walls and the surface ofthe strip lying flush with said margins of the sole member.

2. A shoe comprising a leather sole member having a groove extending about the surface margins inwardly of the edge thereof, a wall of -a,1o2,ass H [said move being undercut, any substantially conforming to the cross sectional shape of the groove inlaid therein, and an upper clinched between said strip and said undercutwall, said strip having a surface substantially flush with I said margins of the sole member.

3. In shoemaking, the method of attaching'an upper to a sole member which includes: providing a sole member having a marginal groove on 7 its flesh side, assembling the sole member on a last flesh side up, assembling an upper on said last wrong side out and extending the lasting allowance of the upper into said groove, securing a filler strip in the groove in engagement with the lasting. allowance of the upper, removing the last and then turning the shoe.

4. In shoemaking, the method of. attaching an upper to a leather. sole member which includes: providing a rounded sole member having a channel of angular cross section about the surface margins inwardly of the edge thereof, extending the lasting allowance of the upper into said channel and against the outer wall thereof, providing a filler strip having the cross sectional shape of said channel, and squeezing said strip into the channel against said upper margin.

.5. In shoemaking, the method of attaching an upper to a sole member which includes: removing an angular strip from about the surface margins of the sole member inwardly of the edge thereof to form an angular marginal channel, removing material from walls of the channel whereby the channel is uniformly enlarged, adhesively securing' the lasting allowance of the upper into the channel against the outer wall thereohand adhesively securing said strip into the channel against said upper margin.

- EDWARD QUINN. 

